HOPKINS COUNTY, KY (6/19/13) - First off, I’m a geek, and I’m a foodie, that was born and raised in Paducah, KY.
I’ve had an affinity for video games ever since the first time a controller graced my hands when I was six. My love for cooking took hold the moment I held a knife, and I started my career in food at 14. I’ve spent serious time playing every make and model of video game out there, while working every position in various area kitchens. At 21, I enrolled at Louisville Kentucky’s Sullivan University College of Culinary Arts and graduated with my degree two years later. From there, I spent the next three years in kitchens around the Washington, DC area. I’ve now returned to Western Kentucky and am completing another degree at Murray State University in Nutrition and Exercise Science. In my spare time, I co-host a video game podcast called TADPOG (Tyler and Dave Play Old Games).
I’ve had a strong desire to share my love of food and its preparation with others, and am honored that the good people at Sugg Street Post are giving me an opportunity to blend all of my passions together. I now have a place to present them to the public in the form of The Gastromancer’s Guild.
The Gastromancer’s Guild
When I started my first class at culinary school, we were immediately drilled with information concerning the five French mother sauces. From these five sauces one can create dozens upon dozens of sauces by varying the basic recipes. This week, Gastromancers, we’ll focus on the last of the five sauces – Hollandaise.
This is the toughest of the five sauces as it requires eggs and butter to be slowly cooked together without scrambling the eggs.
WEEK 23 – Five French Mother Sauces: Hollandaise
Basic Hollandaise (Makes 24 fl. oz.) (Mage)
½ tsp. white peppercorns, crushed
3 fl. oz. white wine vinegar
2 fl. oz. water
6 egg yolks
1 ½ fl. oz. of lemon juice
1 pt. warm clarified butter
salt and pepper to taste
cayenne Pepper to taste
Combine the peppercorns, vinegar and water in a small saucepan and reduce by one half with heat. Place the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl, Strain the vinegar and pepper reduction though a chinois into the yolks (there should be ½ fl. oz. acidic reduction per egg yolk). Place the bowl over a double boiler, whipping the mixture continuously with a wire whisk. As the yolks cook, the mixture will thicken. When the mixture is thick enough to leave a trail across the surface when the whip is drawn away, remove the bowl from the double boiler. Do not overcook the egg yolks. Whip in 1 fl. oz. lemon juice to stop the yolks from cooking. Begin to add the warm clarified butter to the egg yolk mixture a few drops at a time, while constantly whipping the mixture to form an emulsion. Once the emulsion is started, the butter may be added more quickly. Continue until all the butter in incorporated. Whip in the remaining lemon juice and adjust the seasonings. Strain the sauce through cheesecloth if necessary and hold for service in a warm, not simmering. This sauce may be held for 1 to 1 ½ hours.
Variation of Hollandaise
Béarnaise – Combine 2 oz. of chopped shallots, 5 tablespoons of chopped fresh tarragon, 3 tablespoons of chopped fresh chervil, 1 teaspoon of crushed peppercorns with 8 fl. oz. of white wine vinegar. Reduce to 2 fl. oz. Add this reduction to the egg yolks and proceed with the Hollandaise recipe. Strain the finished sauce and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Garnish with additional chopped fresh tarragon.
Choron – Combine 2 oz. of tomato paste and 2 fl. oz. heavy cream. Add that mixture to the béarnaise.
Foyot – Add the béarnaise to 3 fl. oz. melted glace de viande.
Grimrod – Infuse a hollandaise with saffron.
Maltaise – Add to the hollandaise 2 fl. oz. orange juice and 2 teaspoons of finely grated orange zest. Blood oranges are traditional.
Mousseline (Chantilly Sauce) – Whip 8 fl. oz. of heavy cream until stiff. Fold into the Hollandaise just before service.
Tiers of Difficulty
Apprentice – At this level, very few ingredients and basic preparation are used. Recipes of this level are often components of other dishes.
Journeyman – This is where applications of heat and knife-work may start, but the steps are still few in number.
Mage – A fairly competent level of work is required as a Mage. Recipes of this level require a fair amount of skill, use teachings from the previous tiers, and increase in complexity while adding more techniques.
Alchemist – At this level, very complex single dishes are created that require several applications of numerous techniques, as well as multiple ingredients.
Gastromancer – This is the highest degree of difficulty. This may take the level of the Alchemist, but will be multiplied into several dishes.
Sugg Street Post
Written by Tyler Holland
Photo by Jeff Harp